Natalia Chinenova - One of the most influential CEOs of fashion retail, a leading consultant on the organization of retail sales and franchising Fashion Consulting Group. It is to her that the largest Russian retail chain of clothing SELA owes a great deal of her achievements, in which Natalya Chinenova has gone from being a store director to the director general of SELA Corporation's head office for 11 years. During her work at SELA Corporation, she created the largest franchise network, opening more than 500 stores in Russia, Ukraine, Poland, Moldova, Belarus, Transnistria.
In any business, there is an indispensable rule: any costs should be directed exclusively to increasing the profitability of the business, that is, to make a profit. At the same time, costs and investments should not be confused. For example, buying additional commercial equipment or advertising in the media is an investment. Costs include only those expenses that are aimed at ensuring the daily economic activity of the enterprise and at increasing sales directly at the point of sale. In Russian practice, often small investments in a working store, and practically the entire advertising campaign, are expensed. Accordingly, in any unusual situation, these costs are ineffective and unprofitable for the retail enterprise. Therefore, before lowering the costs of a retail store, you first need to figure out which costs relate to costs and which to investments.
International practice of cost effective
Effective costs allow you to increase the profitability of the business, inefficient - do not generate revenue or cause direct losses to the retail store. A decrease in cost-effectiveness is a situation when an enterprise spends the usual standard amount on the maintenance and development of a business, and the amount of the planned income is steadily decreasing or is much less than the calculated one. Costs are considered effective if the average annual estimated forecast for the profitability of the store is at least 10% of the turnover.
In order to determine when costs are effective, it is necessary to use the average statistics of international practice:
· Average monthly sales margin of at least 53% of turnover
· Lease payments - 12 - 15% of the turnover
· Wage Fund - 11 - 17% of the turnover
· Advertising costs - no more than 2%
· Transport costs - not higher than 1%
· Other expenses within 8% - 10%
As can be seen from the cost indicators, the highest costs are incurred in paying rent and staff wages; accordingly, it is necessary to begin reducing costs of the enterprise in these two directions.
Cost Reduction Practice in Russia
The practice of reducing costs in Russia shows a picture of reducing the costs of a retail store (or network), which is exactly the opposite of logic. Most companies begin to save, first of all, on “toilet paper”. Consumables procurement cut, payment of corporate mobile communications, travel tickets, use of Internet resources, etc. stops or is reduced to a minimum. Employees panic and think no longer about work, but about the time when the queue reaches them. The productivity and efficiency of staff decreases, which, in turn, leads to an even greater drop in sales.
Secondarily death All advertising budgets are “killed”. Nobody looks at the fact that seasonal re-window dressing, changing images on the trading floor, accompanying sales promotion campaigns, and even printing shelftockers about a new collection are related to the advertising budget. Accordingly, outdated or absent seasonal clearance of sales areas does not attract buyers and annoys landlords.
Then comes the turn of the staff. Sellers and maintenance staff are cutting back, change the motivation system or reduce wages. These are of course the right measures from the point of view of reducing costs, however, there is always a shortage of qualified sellers in the market, in most chain stores there are not enough staff even on a regular basis. Therefore, thoughtless reduction or incorrect steps to change wages lead the company to the loss of loyal and qualified personnel and to the next round of decline in turnover.
Almost the last thing Negotiation of rental rates begins... It is no secret that rental rates in the capital start from 2,5 and go up to 11 thousand rubles per 1 sq. M. m per month, depending on the traffic of the shopping center, its location and popularity. Often, rates are tied to the rate of the bi-currency basket and are formed from two parts: a fixed amount and a percentage to turnover. The leases are draconian. Either the contract is concluded for 11 months and is not registered, or it is registered and provides for huge penalties for early termination. In either case, the company is on the verge of bankruptcy. In the first, the store will simply be thrown into the street, in the second, they will be sued. The situation is almost hopeless.
Today, many media write that landlords went to fix the dollar at the pre-crisis level, someone agrees on a percentage of the turnover, but even these measures do not save the retail store, since rental rates in Moscow for Russian operators range from 25 to 50% to turnover, which is very far from ideal. Most importantly, the turnover of most retail stores as of April 1 2015 in units fell by 50-60%, and in ruble terms either remained at the pre-crisis level, or decreased by 10-15% (almost doubled in dollars).
Ways to increase cost effectiveness
What to do in such a situation? First you need to try to negotiate with all contractors to reduce rates or tariffs for services:
· The fixed rental rate for a dual-currency basket should not exceed 35 - 40 rubles per 1 conventional unit.
· The currency rate should be fixed in rubles and set at an acceptable level for the retail business
· A deferred payment proposal is possible when the existing rental rate is reduced due to future higher payments
· Contracts for the export of TBI, operating contracts and contracts for other services should be revised downwards
In the case when it was not possible to agree, or it was possible to agree, but the results do not suit you:
· Discuss with the landlord the possibility of moving to a smaller area
· We are trying to change the assortment and organization of the store’s sales area, since empty areas of walls, floors or even shelves are a disease of many stores, this is payment for air
We agree amicably on the termination of the lease relationship - losses need to be reduced, not increased
If it is not possible to agree, we break off relations: it is better to go to court than to become bankrupt and leave the market
What do we do with the staff?
We evaluate the actual result of the fall in turnover and conversion rate and compare the result with the sales efficiency per seller. If the seller sells one or less products in 1 hour, staff can be reduced. In fact, the number of sales per seller per hour is a standard that each company sets for itself, but less than 1 products per hour is already a luxury.
Remaining sellers can not reduce salaries. The motivation system can be changed, only first you need to talk with the staff. In general, talking and negotiating are two main tasks in a crisis. When you hire a repairman, you pay him only for the work done, so the seller needs to tell you what kind of work, for what level of sales per hour, day or month you are ready to pay him bonuses and bonuses.
After or in parallel with the fact that you have resolved issues regarding the most significant cost items of your store, you can revise the cost of transportation, advertising and other costs. The best option is to review the entire store management system. The best place to start is with logistics. Logistics include storage and delivery of goods. Does your store, the rental of which is just “gold”, have a utility room or a warehouse? Is he needed today? Why is it needed if the company has a single distribution center? Maybe it is better to use the warehouse area at the store for the presentation of goods and convert the back room into a trading floor? Maybe it’s really more correct to move to a smaller area? Comprehensive answers must be prepared to these questions. For a shoe store, it is simply impossible to do without an auxiliary room; for a clothing store, accessories or cosmetics, a minimal area of pre-sale preparation of goods is needed.
The frequency and schedule of delivery of goods to stores is an article that takes a small share in costs, however, it can be optimized. For any retail operator, it is more profitable to outsource transport services. And less trouble, and VAT refundable.
Advertising costs are optimized only by compiling a tight sales calendar and evaluating the effectiveness of each ongoing sales promotion campaign. Given the specifics of Russian customers, showing increased loyalty to their favorite brands, to refuse advertising costs is wrong. The main thing is that they do not exceed 2% of retail turnover.
In any case and in any situation, the costs must be effective. To do this, you must reevaluate the entire retail business in all respects and parameters. Ideally, if the company, taking advantage of the current situation, deals not only with cost reduction, but also with the intensification of all processes existing in retail sales. Planning and efficiency come from the store’s shelf, not from the finance department or our wishes.
| Please rate the article |
The main colors of women's shoes for the fall-winter 2026/27 season
Fashion continues to embrace the language of emotion. The upcoming Fall/Winter 2026/27 season promises to be emotional and slightly reflective. Vibrancy gives way to depth, and ostentatious luxury is replaced by enveloping warmth. Five key shades of women's footwear reflect precisely these sentiments: trust in naturalness, attention to texture, and a desire to find beauty in nuances. Let's turn to the professional forecast of seasonal, cutting-edge colors from the international trend bureau Future Snoops. The selection of the Fall/Winter 2026/27 palette from Future Snoops presented in this article is an emotional map of the coming season, speaking of trust and fragile honesty, balance, inner strength, and warmth that requires no occasion. These five shades transform the seasonal footwear styles into a unique color language that can help the brand and its customers express themselves and their emotions.
Offline vs. Marketplaces: How to Survive and Win in 2026?
In Russia, e-commerce's share has grown from 5% in 2019 to nearly 23% in 2024 and continues to grow, with e-commerce market analysts predicting it will reach over 30% by 2029. Offline retail, meanwhile, can not only survive but also grow by 20-30% annually if it stops offering clothes on hangers and shoes on shelves and starts selling unique experiences. We discuss this topic with Shoes Report regular contributor Elena Vinogradova, an expert in fashion buying and sales and the author of the Fashion Business Blog, a blog for retailers and buyers.
How a fashion brand can launch a successful licensed product with a celebrity
Why fashion brands should consider licensing as a strategic tool—this is what Natalia Timashova, editor-in-chief of Shoes Report magazine, discussed with Maria Kozeeva, CEO of the Yulia Vysotskaya media holding (part of the Andrey Sergeevich Konchalovsky Production Center) and brand director of the Edim Doma and Julia Vysotskaya businesses.
How to strengthen and make your brand more sustainable
2025 has become a year of survival for many fashion brands in the challenging and rapidly changing conditions of an overheated market: declining traffic, the closure of entire chains and companies, the consolidation of sellers on marketplaces, the shift of customer traffic from offline to online—all these and other factors have impacted everyone, especially the weaker ones, those experiencing various challenges. The market has shifted to savings consumption. Some consider this a crisis, but our expert, Dania Tkacheva, a business consultant specializing in sales management and strategic development for fashion brands, calls it the maturation of the market. She offers distressed companies her own tool for diagnosing their business and opportunities for recovery and recovery. She calls this tool the Brand Maturity Pyramid.
Sales of additional goods and services can add up to 20-30% to a store's turnover.
Many stores today have hit a sales ceiling: they have the product range, the team is working hard, the marketing is up and running, but revenue isn't growing. Where can they find growth opportunities? In reality, the potential for growth lies right in the customer's receipt. And it's not about raising prices, but about offering customers more value at the point of purchase. We discussed with Maria Gerasimenko, an expert at SR in fashion business management and development, how to increase sales with additional merchandise, why accessories and related products are becoming a strategic source of profit, and the role of the store team.
Chinese brands and factories at Euro Shoes
The Russian economy's pivot toward Asia and the active development of the footwear industry and the technological base for producing a wide range of footwear in China are opening up new prospects for cooperation with Chinese partners.
Rieker and Remonte with new collections - at Euro Shoes
Rieker is well-known and beloved in Russia. Each pair of Rieker shoes is designed with the anatomy of the foot in mind, using Rieker's signature Antistress technology to ensure maximum comfort.
The home collection from Australian brand EMU Australia at Euro Shoes
SOHO Fashion invites you to discover the new Fall/Winter 26 collection of Australian footwear brand EMU Australia at the Euro Shoes Premiere Collection international exhibition in Moscow.
The 37th Euro Shoes Premiere Collection exhibition concluded successfully in Moscow.
From March 4th to 7th, the International Euro Shoes Premiere Collection exhibition took place at the WTC Congress Center in Moscow. It is a specialized B2B event for footwear industry and fashion retail professionals and the key industry event of the new purchasing season and selection development for fashion retailers. Approximately 100 companies and brands participated in the exhibition, presenting their Fall/Winter 2026/27 footwear, bag, and accessory collections to professional visitors.
Needs Identification Techniques That Really Work in Shoe Stores
"How can I help you?" is the most common, yet least effective, question in shoe retail. Customers rarely articulate their needs clearly. Some are shy, while others don't fully understand what they're looking for. Therefore, a salesperson's job isn't simply to suggest styles; they need to be able to identify the customer's true desires. In this article, SR expert Maria Gerasimenko and I explore five techniques that will help your staff better hear, see, and understand your customers, and therefore sell more and better.
Revisiting classic standards of retail lighting through the lens of modern technology
Just yesterday, the principle governing retail lighting was: the brighter the light, the brighter the store, the more customers and sales. Today, this principle has lost its relevance. It has been replaced by a trend toward a well-thought-out concept, intelligently applied lighting, and carefully selected lighting fixtures. Anastasia Efremova, SR's expert in retail lighting and lighting designer at Tochka Opory, discusses current lighting principles in fashion and footwear retail, and how light helps interact with merchandise, space, and customer emotions. She will help you understand the fundamental principles of lighting through the lens of new retail space requirements.
Just a month until the Euro Shoes exhibition in Moscow!
We are counting down the days for the main international exhibition of footwear and accessories Euro Shoes Premiere Collection in Moscow! The exhibition will be held from August 27 to 30 at a new premium venue – the capital's congress center WTC on Krasnopresnenskaya Embankment.
The Battle for the Sports Shoe Market
Fashion market experts and economic analysts predict a decline in sales of Nike and Adidas. The leadership positions of the unsinkable sports giants may be seriously shaken in the coming years, as they are being pushed out by young, bold and active competitors – challenger brands.
Micam and Livetrend presented a selection of footwear trends for the spring-summer 2026 season
The Italian international footwear fair Micam presents the "Spring-Summer 2026 Trend Guide", developed in collaboration with Livetrend. The guide is based on the analysis of social networks, online marketplaces and fashion shows, as well as new technologies such as artificial intelligence and Big Data.
PETER KAISER - the best brand of 2025!
"CAPRICE Schuhproduktion GmbH has received a certificate for awarding PETER KAISER the title of "Top Brand 2025".
Turn to Asia. Features of shoe production at a factory in China
Finding a partner factory for shoe production is not an easy process. Today, many Russian brands sew their collections in factories in China. The concept of the women's shoe brand N.early N.aked, founded in 2019, was based on the idea of producing shoes suitable for dancing, with a perfect fit. Initially, the shoes were sewn in Europe, but in 2022, shoe production was moved to China.
How to Compete with Marketplaces in 2025
The shoe business is a complex process due to the many related micro-strategies used to extract profit. It is necessary to determine how much goods to purchase, what trade margin to set, and approve the norm of balances at the end of the season. In addition, it is necessary to draw up a sales plan and decide on marketing campaigns that take into account seasonal demand and the competitive environment, set up a personnel motivation system and correctly set control points.
Rieker and Remonte will present their new collections at Euro Shoes!
The brands Rieker and Remonte, which are among the leading shoe companies in Germany, will present their Spring-Summer'26 collections in Moscow at the international exhibition of footwear and accessories Euro Shoes! The exhibition will be held from August 27 to 30, 2025 at a new premium venue in the WTC Congress Center on Krasnopresnenskaya Embankment.
The share of marketplaces will grow
The footwear category on Ozon Fashion shows steady growth
New Tamaris Spring-Summer 26 Collection: Comfort and Elegance in Every Model
German footwear and accessories brand Tamaris will present its new Spring-Summer '26 collection at the Euro Shoes exhibition in Moscow, from August 27 to 30.
KV+ sneakers for city and sports for the first time at Euro Shoes
The Swiss brand KV+ is not so well known to the general Russian audience, but it is well known in the world of skiing, because it was there that KV+ took its first steps and actively developed. The Swiss brand has earned the trust of the professional sports audience over the past 35 years. At the same time, the Russian sports market of ski equipment has always been a priority for the Swiss.
Shoe educational program: what shoe soles are made of
“What is the difference between TEP and EVA? What does tunit promise me? Is PVC glue? What is the sole of these shoes made of? ”- the modern buyer wants to know everything. In order not to smash his face in front of him and be able to explain whether such a sole suits him in soles, carefully read this article. In it, process engineer Igor Okorokov tells what materials the soles of shoes are made of and what makes each of them so good.
How to set prices that will earn
Some businessmen still confuse the concept of margin with the concept of trade margins and set prices for their goods, guided solely by the example of competitors. No wonder they go broke! Analyst at the Academy of Retail Technologies Maxim Gorshkov gives several tips and formulas with which you can set not only ruinous, but also profitable prices.
Sales of shoes and accessories: effective techniques for business rhetoric
Which speech modules are effective in communicating with potential and current customers of shoe stores, and which are not, Anna Bocharova, a business consultant, knows.
We form the salary of sellers: expert advice
“How do you charge your consultants for personal or general sales?” Is one of the most popular questions causing a lot of controversy and gossip on the online forums of retail business owners. Indeed, how to properly form the earnings of sellers? But what about bonuses, where to get a sales plan from, do employees allow them to buy goods at discounted stores? In search of truth, the Shoes Report turned to a dozen shoe retailers, but no company wanted to disclose its motivation system - the process of its development was too complicated and individual. Then we asked four business consultants, and finally became convinced that the topic of seller motivation is very complex, because even our experts could not come to a common opinion.
The whole truth about Bayer. Who is he and how to become one?
Bayer is no longer a new, but still a popular and sought-after profession. It’s fashionable to be a buyer. Buyers are at the origins of the emergence and development of trends. If the designer offers his vision of fashion in the season, then the buyer selects the most interesting commercial ideas. It is on buyers that the policy of sales of stores and what, in the end, the buyer will wear depends on. This profession is surrounded by a magical fleur, often associated with a lack of understanding of what exactly is the work of a buyer.
Technology Selling Issues
There is nothing worse than meeting the buyer with the words “Hello, can I help you with something?”, Because the seller works in the store just to help. Criticizing this well-established pattern of communication with the buyer, Andrei Chirkarev, business coach for effective sales and the founder of the New Economy project, shares the technology of truly selling issues with readers of Shoes Report.
Fur, and not only: types of lining
In the production of winter footwear, various materials are used that are designed to retain heat and meet the requirements of consumers: natural sheepleather, artificial fur, artificial fur from natural wool and others. All types of lining fur have their own advantages and disadvantages. Let's consider the properties of each of them.
Retail Arithmetic
Before you begin to solve specific problems, you need to find out how accurately all the leaders of your company understand the basic terminology of retail.
How to fire a worker without tears, scandal and trial
Sooner or later, any manager is faced with the need to part with an employee. Correctly and on time the dismissal procedure will save the company money, and the boss himself - nerves and time. But why sometimes, knowing that a break in relations is inevitable, we postpone the decision for months?