Rieker
Fabi for Hambartsum Kabanyan
27.04.2016 2007

Fabi for Hambartsum Kabanyan

Fabi has developed a new shoe model for the actor at the Theater Workshop of Peter Fomenko Hambartsum Kabanyan.

Monkey Ambartsuma made using Flex Goodyear technique.

Goodyear is originally an English classic technology. Four structural elements are involved in the process - the upper part of the shoe, the inner sole, the outer sole and the edging. A leather edging goes around the shoes along the contour of the sole and plays the role of not only a structural element connecting the top with the sole, but also decorative.

First, the inner sole is prepared - on one side, a special edge is formed perpendicular to the surface. This hem is the place where the goodyear stich will simultaneously connect the inner sole with the upper part of the shoe and the piping. The formation of the edge occurs in different ways: the layer of the sole is cut off, which must be of sufficient thickness, or a separate part of the edge is sharpened / glued. The outsole is then bonded with a foam pad (ideally cork), which will provide comfort for the foot while walking as well as thermal insulation. The final stage is attaching the outer sole. The part is first glued and then sewn to the piping (welted stich). It turns out that two connecting lines are laid along the edge. The first line is called the Goodyear Stich and is the one that is laid on the Goodyear machine. The machine was designed by the Englishman Charles Jr. Goodyear in the 19th century, the son of the famous inventor of vulcanized rubber. (The machine method made it possible to start mass production of shoes.) The second line is made on another equipment - the Little Points machine. The stitching on the outer sole is made in a special channel (the seam turns out to be, as it were, recessed into the thickness of the sole). This protects the threads from abrasion, but not so reliably. Therefore, the visible seam is hidden. For example, an additional sole layer is superimposed on top. Aerobatics is considered to be the formation of a channel by making an incision in the sole (a line is made in this incision), and then this removed layer of leather is rolled back, "burying" the line under it. 

Goodyear's benefits include water resistance, comfort and durability due to the possibility of replacing the sole (the last welted seam is opened and a new sole is sewn).

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