The winners of the Lineapelle Russian Award 2009 young designers' competition have already recovered from the pleasant shock, having received prizes, and have begun to prepare for the autumn trip to the Italian city of Bologna, where the finals of the annual international competition will take place. Who are the heroes of the future tense? In the previous issue, we talked about how the seats were distributed at the Russian stage. Evgenia Bubnova talks about the heroes of the future in more detail.
Energy of sun
The first place in the competition for young designers Lineapelle Russian Award went to Natalya Sokolova with the collection of women's casual shoes "Bambucha!" Natalia created footwear for people tired of the city, asphalt, bad weather, gray color, reagents and chemistry. Therefore, the main idea of her collection was environmental friendliness and naturalness. The collection is dominated by warm, natural colors - golden ocher, noble brown, the color of sand, clay, fertile soil and delicate greenery.
“The source for the creation of the Bambucha collection was ethnic motifs, the art of face painting, which is popular among African tribes,” the designer describes the collection. - I wanted to transfer the heat and energy of the sun, so I decided to use materials of plant origin. For bootlegs and insoles, I used a unique natural material - 100% bamboo yarn grown in ecologically clean areas, the cultivation of which does not use pesticides and chemicals. The material is soft, provides comfort, has a nice color and delicate shine. It carries exactly what I wanted to convey - solar heat! ”
The Lineapelle Russian Award was a star debut for Natalia Sokolova: the contest, at which the designer first announced herself, ended in victory for her.
“The Lineapelle Russian Award is my start, my first important achievement. And I consider the victory in this competition as confirmation that I am on the right path, - says Natalya, - after all, I decided to start designing shoes spontaneously. Of course, I already had a "base" - I graduated from the full course of the art school with honors, specializing in easel painting restorer, for two years I studied as an advertising designer at the evening department of one of the Moscow institutes. I knew that my future profession would be creative. At the age of 16, I came to enroll in preparatory courses at MGUDT, and a wide range of specializations opened up in front of me: artistic design of a costume, knitwear, interior products, artistic design of jewelry, costume accessories and shoes, advertising. It is difficult for me to explain what guided me when choosing a specialty ... Perhaps it was intuition. Shoe design is a really interesting and laborious craft that requires knowledge of composition, fashion patterns, construction, a sense of harmony, beauty and much more. This is a whole art! "
From clean ecology to clean forms
This is not the first time the Lineapelle Russian Award has been given to debutants. Last 2008, the same pleasant story happened with Elizabeth Zhernovenkova and her first collection. This year, Elizabeth will go to the Lineapelle 2009 exhibition in Bologna with the Open Air collection.
“The fact that I will be engaged in design, I knew, while still studying at an art school,” says Elizaveta Zhernovenkova, “and the choice of shoe design came with the choice of the institute. I was interested in both industrial design and fashion design. This is probably why I chose shoes and accessories as the golden mean. Later, while studying, I got involved and could not think of any other way. My new collection of accessories from environmentally friendly Open Air materials includes both bags and shoes. The mood of the collection was inspired by the ideas of rational use of natural resources, Indian culture and 70's music. I tried to make this collection eco-friendly, for this I used vegetable tanned leather, White Wet chrome-free tanned leather and a textile-based cork. The basis of models of shoes of a strap design with a flat sole was taken from traditional all-cut shoes of Asian countries. I added minimalism and traditions of European design to it. ”
"Open Air" - this is the fourth collection of Elizabeth. “It all started with the desire to go beyond the sketches we made at the university. I tried to create the first full-fledged collection that has its own image. Then I was inspired by the images of Japanese animation and the Tokyo quarter of Harujuki. Then there was the hat collection “Mad Tea Party” and the collection of shoes and accessories “Mod”.
In the future, Elizabeth plans to create her own brand. She takes her first steps now - she makes bags, shoes and accessories under her Liza Mill brand. Some of them can already be bought today through her blog on the Internet, while the designer is working on a full-fledged website.
“Style is a reflection of the inner world of a person,” says Elizabeth, “it is very individual, so I don’t understand those people who are guided only by fashion trends and become clones of each other. After all, the style of clothing is one of the ways of communication in society, the opportunity to say something without words ... "
Triangle as the basis of the geometry of the future
Second place Lineapelle Russian Award 2009 was taken by Tatevik Nazaryan with the collection “Geometry of the Future”. Of all the geometric shapes, she was most interested in the triangle, it was he who became the figurative basis of the collection. "Gray. Elegantly. Exquisitely. Perfect, ”the designer says. - The classic gray color is appropriate everywhere and always, and in addition, it is unusually practical. The key element of the collection was dizzy high wooden heels made by hand, and metal rods, so in harmony with a noble tree and suede. The main idea of this collection was understatement. It manifests itself in decorative triangular elements that are not completely built. A necessary element of the shoe, the heel, suddenly turns into an unfinished geometric figure. Thus, I gave the viewer the opportunity to finish to the end what was originally intended, what we do so often, looking to the future. ”
Tatevik is hardly a designer-debutant: she started in 2007 with the collection “Winged Stones”. Then the third-year student of MGUDT won the MosShoes Style 2007 competition in the haute couture nomination, received the Grand Prix of the 2007 Admiralty Needle contest (also in the haute couture nomination). At the Lineapelle Russian Award 2008 competition, she took second place and received the right to participate in the Bologna exhibition.
“I don’t really like to make plans for my future,” says Tatevik, “but I know one thing for sure: I was engaged and will continue to do my favorite thing - to create beautiful and comfortable shoes. A person who is fully committed to his work, sooner or later will certainly reach professional heights. I am sure of this, as well as that someday in Russia there will be Salvatore Ferragamo, Christian Louboutin and Roger Vivier. ”
The third place in the Lineapelle Russian Award competition was given to Urban Sentiments by Elena Shlisere-Shlisele. For Elena, this is the first full collection and the first competition. And third place is a good start.
“I was born in a small town in Latvia. Since 5, she has been engaged in an art studio, participated in competitions of artists, both urban and international, ”recalls the beginning of his professional career as a designer. - After the 9 class, my family moved to Israel, where I graduated from high school. The class was with in-depth study of art, we had a lot of practical classes in sculpture, drawing and painting. Therefore, by the time I graduated, I had no doubt about what I wanted to do. In 2003, I entered the Moscow State University of Economics and Technology, at the faculty of design, to get the specialty “Accessory Design”. Accessories always fascinated me much more than a suit. Besides, everyone was engaged in clothes, but I didn’t want to be like everyone else. ”
The collection of bags "Urban mood" was born within six months. The designer was inspired by English punk fashion and a Scottish cage. In “Urban moods” leather, fur and textile accessories are combined in the form of scarves made using the technique of cold batik. After analyzing fashion trends for the Autumn-Winter 2008 / 2009 season and making a forecast for the next fashion season, Elena found out that the Scottish cage will only gain momentum. The collection was created for rebels, but not completely abandoned classics. Rebel drive is conveyed using color, texture, geometric ornaments and applications.
“When I start working on a collection, I use a certain scheme,” says Elena. - It all starts with an analysis of fashion trends and making forecasts for the next season. This is color, texture, material, shape. Based on the collected material, the most interesting moments are highlighted, the image of the collection and the concept are compiled. Assortment groups are determined, a preliminary design is developed, the most successful models are performed in the material.
Now, first of all, I want to become a high-class professional and a sought-after specialist, I want self-realization. I believe that women should work only for their pleasure, and if it also brings income - wonderful. My cherished desire is to open my own small workshop for tailoring copyrighted, exclusive leather and fur accessories. Products would be produced in quantities of less than five pieces or in general in a single copy. But this is a distant future. But now I am open to any offers and at the same time accept individual orders. "
The right to be represented at the Lineapelle 2009 exhibition in Bologna was granted to Luce Avetyan with the Rubik's Cube collection of shoes and accessories.
“I wanted to make a creative collection of accessories that meets the fashion trends of the coming season,” says Lucy. - The starting point was the puzzle game "Rubik's Cube", in which I found the combination of color, texture and geometric lines that I needed. The classic Rubik's cube is multi-colored - red, black, green, blue, yellow, white. It has a clear geometric shape, functionality and transformism - all that will be relevant next season. So I called my collection “Rubik's Cube”. I made the accent in shoes on heels of an unusual shape, which give an unusual look to seemingly ordinary pumps. A detail rotates on one of the pairs on the heel - it is somewhat reminiscent of a game. ”
Lyusya, like the other winners, a graduate of Moscow State University of Economics and Technology: “Initially, I entered the department of Costume Design, but then, in the process of preparing for admission, I realized that I pay more attention to accessories in the suit. In the sketches I painted shoes, bags, jewelry, hats. My teacher advised me to enter the specialty “Design of shoes”. Now, having studied at the university for six years, I can say that I have not regretted it for a second. I just graduated from the university, and I want to participate in competitions, get professional experience. And in the future I want to open my own business and engage in the promotion of an author’s brand. ”
For Lucy, one of the main ideas in the collection was to find an expression for her own idea of femininity. “It seems to me that some girls sometimes forget that femininity is not only external but also internal beauty,” she says. - Of course, I think that the appearance is the starting point. However, it would be wrong not to associate with him a certain style of behavior and human ethics. For example, the girl should be characterized by grace, and not excessive gesticulation. Femininity implies gentleness, tenderness and grace of manners. ”
For some of the contestants this year, the Lineapelle Russian Award was not the first competition. Some of them have been trying their luck for a long time and are experiencing strength in various international design competitions. But, of course, for all Lineapelle winners, the upcoming trip to Bologna will not only be a pleasant journey, but also a ticket to a great professional future.
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