We talk about the young designer’s views on life, fashion and work, about playing with details, shapes and colors, about economic feasibility and sense of proportion with the prize winner of the international competition of young designers LINEAPELLE AWARD, student of Moscow State University of Economics and Architecture Marianna Nareyko.
- Marianne, tell us about yourself. Why did you decide to start designing shoes and accessories?
- Everything happened gradually. It probably began with the fact that as a child I was presented with oil paints, and I began to take an interest in painting, looking at how brush strokes were applied in the paintings of famous artists. Then there was an art school, a ceramics class, and a great desire to do sculpture. Having tried myself on various courses of preparation for entering a university, I decided that a specialty with an interesting name "design of small forms" at the department of "Costume Design" is what I need. In fact, this is the same sculpture, only created with the help of different materials and technologies.
Not having gained the required number of points on the exam, I succumbed to the persuasion of my parents to get the “right” profession and went to study to be an economist, which I do not regret now. However, even working in my specialty, I still wanted to do design and was determined to go to study. I really wanted to express my thoughts and emotions not through words, but through images, to create tangible things that have a shape, texture, color, smell ...
- What materials do you like to work with the most?
- Most of all I like to work with genuine leather, as well as combine it with other materials, such as knitwear or prints. And I also love to use non-standard fittings.
- Creating a new collection, what are you starting from - from material, color, some kind of external idea?
- All the time in different ways: either you try to create the desired image, then you start from the texture of materials or their combination, and sometimes, absorbing the surrounding reality, you want to convey the present through personal associations with any colors and textures, stop the moment.
- What is the idea of the Equilibrium collection, which won the prize in Italy? What are the interesting models?
- The creation of this collection began with a passion for the work of my favorite designer, Jerzy Yamamoto. I was inspired by the amazing cut, shaping, asymmetry of his clothes. Since deconstructivism prefers to play with details, cuts and shapes, deliberately avoiding the use of ornament and color, the collection is made of plain soft leather without decorative lines on the surface of the bags and without accessories.
- Vivienne Westwood recently said that haute couture designers have spoiled people's tastes over the past 20 years. What do you think about this?
- In the race for fashion, people do not pay attention to the fact that sometimes they look comical. To avoid this, you need to have an internal sense of style, a measure that is rarely found in poorly copied clothing produced in huge print runs. Let the designers surprise us with their ideas, but the final choice of what to wear is still ours.
- What qualities should a designer have to be successful?
- He needs to have 1% of talent and 99% of perseverance and hard work.
- How to meet the requirements of the market and not change yourself, your style?
- Try to teach your style so that it is economically feasible and in demand.
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